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Okavango Delta

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Things to Know

The Okavango Delta

Established in 1968, the park covers approximately 11,700 Km2. Chobe NP is Botswana’s first National Park and is known for having the highest concentration of elephants in all of Africa.

The Okavango Delta gives entrance to the spectacle of wild Africa such as dreams are made of – the heart-stopping excitement of big game viewing, the supreme tranquility and serenity of an untouched delta, and evocative scenes of extraordinary natural beauty.

A journey to the Okavango Delta – deep into Africa’s untouched interior – is like no other. Moving from wetland to dryland – traversing the meandering palm and papyrus fringed waterways, passing palm-fringed islands, and thick woodland, resplendent with lush vegetation, and rich in wildlife – reveals the many facets of this unique ecosystem, the largest intact inland delta in the world.

The Okavango Delta is situated deep within the Kalahari Basin, and is often referred to as the ‘jewel’ of the Kalahari. That the Okavango exists at all – deep within this thirstland – seems remarkable. Shaped like a fan, the Delta is fed by the Okavango River, the third largest in southern Africa. It has been steadily developed over the millennia by millions of tonnes of sand carried down the river from Angola.

There are three main geographical areas:

the Panhandle the Delta dryland

 

The Panhandle begins at the Okavango’s northern reaches, at Mohembo, extending down for approximately 80 kilometres. Its corridor-like shape is contained within two parallel faults in the Earth’s crust. Here the river runs deep and wide and the swamps are perennially flooded. The dominant vegetation is vast papyrus beds and large stands of phoenix palms. The main tourist attractions of the Panhandle are fishing, birding and visiting the colourful villages that line its western fringes.

At Seronga, the fan-shaped Delta emerges, and the waters spill over the Delta, rejuvenating the landscape and creating stunning mosaics of channels, lagoons, ox-bow lakes, flooded grasslands and thousands upon thousands of islands of an endless variety of shapes and sizes. Many of the smaller islands are grandiose termitaria built by fungus-growing termites, one of 400 termite species in Africa, whose fantastic structures are a source of refuge and food for many animals.

The Delta region of the Okavango can vary in size from 15 000 square kilometres during drier periods to a staggering 22 000 square kilometres during wetter periods. Its dominant plant species are reeds, mokolwane palms, acacia, sycamore fig, sausage trees, raintrees and African mangosteen.

At the Delta’s lower reaches, the perennial swamps give way to seasonal swamps and flooded grasslands. To the southeast the third vegetation region becomes evident, as it changes to true dryland. There are three major land masses here: the Matsebi Ridge, Chief’s Island and the Moremi tongue. Here the vegetation is predominantly mophane, acacia and scrub bush and the land is dotted with pans. It is to this region that large numbers of mammals retreat during the dry winter months.

Major tourist attractions in the Delta and the dryland areas are game viewing, birding and boating, often in the traditional mokoro. The diversity and numbers of animals and birds can be staggering. A recent overview of the Okavango records 122 species of mammals, 71 species of fish, 444 species of birds, 64 species of reptiles and 1300 species of flowering plants. A successful Black and White Rhino reintroduction programme was conducted in the Okavango.

The Okavango Delta is known as one of the best places on the entire continent for bird watching. The best time for avid birders to visit the Okavango Delta is from November to April when many species migrate to the Delta and turn it into a true paradise for bird lovers.

Some of the most remarkable birds in the region include the red-billed oxpecker, often found sitting atop lazing hippos; red-billed hornbills, who share a special relationship with the mongoose and alert them when predators are near; African Jacanas, with their bright blue markings and long legs that walk across floating vegetation; African fish eagles, powerful birds of prey; the wattled crane, the largest crane species in Africa and critically endangered; and the saddle-billed stork, whose vibrant red and yellow markings will astound you.

The Okavango Delta People

The Okavango Delta Peoples of Botswana consist of five separate ethnic groups, each with their own language and ethnic identity. The five ethnic groups are: (1) Bugakwe (Kxoe, Bugakhoe, Kwengo, Barakwena, Mbarakwena, Mbarakwengo, G/anda, /anda), (2) Dxeriku (Dceriku, Diriku, Gceriku, Gciriku, Vagciriku, Giriku, Mbogedo, Niriku, Vamanyo), (3) Hambukushu (Mbukushu, Bukushu, Bukusu, Mbukuschu, Mamakush, Mampakush, Ghuva, Haghuva, Gova, Cusso, Kusso, Hakokohu, Havamasiko), (4) Wayeyi (Bayei, Bayeyi, Bakoba, Bajei, Jo, Hajo, Tjaube, Yei), and (5) Xanekwe (Gx- anekwe, //tanekwe, tannekhoe, River Bushmen, Swamp Bushmen, G//ani, //ani, Banoka). Note that for each of these groups, there are many different spellings (and pronunciations). Some of these are names from another language; others are corruptions or misinterpretations. Since many outsiders have contributed to the written history of these groups and people have moved across national boundaries, it is important to recognize this disparate nomenclature to preserve the breadth of each group’s cultural history. Here we are using the spellings which members of these ethnic groups in Botswana use in referring to themselves.

Understanding the historical distribution of people and their patterns of migration and association are key elements to interpreting the present. Members of all of these ethnic groups live outside of Bo- tswana as well. Bugakwe, Dxeriku, and Hambukushu live in northern Namibia and southern Angola. There are also Hambukushu people in southwestern Zambia. Some Xanekwe and Wayeyi people also live in northern Namibia. Due to the Namibian war for independence and the Angolan civil war, communication and travel between Botswana, Namibia, and Angola has been difficult starting from the 1970s until recently. As a result, the ethnic communities in these countries have grown apart. Although now travel along the Okavango River is easier between Botswana and Namibia, the long civil war in Angola has left Angolan members of these ethnic groups relatively isolated.

Aside from the distinct ethnic identities of these groups, there is a further important distinction. Bugakwe and Xanekwe are Bushmen peoples (also called San or Basarwa again we use the term pre- ferred by most members of these groups whom we know). Bushmen are the aboriginal inhabitants of southern Africa and have lived in small groups as nomadic hunter gatherers. Dxeriku, Hambukushu, and Wayeyi are Bantu peoples who speak distantly related Central Bantu languages. This suggests that the Dxeriku, Hambukushu, and Wayeyi are more recent inhabitants of the area, having separate- ly migrated from central Africa several hundred years ago.

Today, people from all five ethnic groups live throughout the Okavango Delta. Historically the Bugakwe, Dxeriku, and Hambukushu lived in the Panhandle and eastern edge of the Delta. The Xanekwe lived in the Panhandle and along the Jao and Boro Rivers in the central and western Delta, and the Wayeyi lived along the Jao River in the northern Delta, on the northwestern side of the Delta, and on the southern edge of the Delta.



Dry season – April to October June and July is the coolest time of year in the Delta, but temperatures begin to increase in August, and they peak in October. Don’t forget to bring warm clothing for early morning game drives and boat trips, as temperatures drop at night, and it’s still very cold in the early morning.

April & May – This is the beginning of the Dry season. The vegetation in the delta is still green. There is plenty of sunshine and conditions are mostly dry. Afternoon temperatures average 29°C/84°F, making the days feel very warm. June, July & August – It is very dry and somewhat cooler now – afternoon temperatures climb to a pleasant 26°C/79°F on average. However, early mornings are very cold at about 7°C/45°F.

September & October – It gets hotter and hotter at the end of the Dry season before the rains bring relief from the oppressive heat. October is stifling, with average temperatures of 35°C/95°F. Nights and early mornings are pleasant.

Wet season – November to March

Wen finally the rains arrives in the Delta it cools things down, and the dust settles. Afternoon thunderstorms and short showers become normal. It stays pretty hot through the Wet season – afternoon temperatures are about 31°C/88°F.

November & December – It only rains occasionally, mostly it’s hot and sunny. The rain comes as a relief because temperatures build beforehand and drop after. With average temperatures of about 19°C/65°F, early mornings are the most comfortable time.

January & February – During the wettest months, strong storms are frequent, especially in the afternoon. Rainfall doesn’t usually last more than a few hours.

March – The rains are tapering off, although it still rains every couple of days. Precipitation is mostly in the form of thunderstorms. Mornings tend to be a little cooler at 18°C/64°F.

Travel time Tips

Best Time

June to October (Best wildlife viewing)

High Season

July to October (High season rates apply, small exclusive lodges never get busy)

Low Season

November to June (Low season rates apply)

Best Weather

May to August (Less hot during the day)

Worst Weather

October (It gets extremely hot)